Authentic Brands Eyes Acquisition of Italian House Missoni to Bolster Luxury Portfolio

Authentic Brands Group could add a new name to its portfolio. The U.S. holding company, owner of Reebok, Champion and Barneys New York, is in exclusive negotiations to acquire the Italian fashion brand Missoni. According to information published by the U.S. media WWD, the transaction, if completed, could be closed before the end of the year.

Currently, the Missoni family controls 58.8% of the capital, while Fondo Strategico Italiano owns 41.2% since its entry in 2018. Under the executive management of Livio Proli, the Italian firm has seen a substantial improvement in its results in the last financial year, with gross operating profit (ebitda) rising to €16.6 million in 2024, up from €2.1 million the previous year, and net profit of €8.9 million.

Industry sources have pointed out that Missoni would fit into Authentic Brands Group’s business model, focused on acquiring brands with global potential and the ability to develop through licensing. In recent years, the New York-based group has diversified its portfolio into the premium segment through Authentic Luxury Group, a joint venture with Saks Global that manages brands such as Barneys New York, Hervé Léger, Judith Leiber Couture and Vince.

The possible purchase of Missoni would be framed in a context of less dynamism in corporate operations in the sector. According to the latest Deloitte report, 333 transactions were recorded globally in 2024, 25 fewer than the previous year. During the first half of 2025, transactions fell by a further 14%.

Authentic Brands Group’s portfolio includes Reebok, Champion and Barneys New York

Missoni, founded in 1953 by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, is one of the last family symbols of Italian fashion that has championed an independent operation outside of groups. Today, the company known for its knitwear work remains under third-generation control, with Angela Missoni as president and Luca Missoni at the helm of cultural projects. Its eventual incorporation into Authentic Brands would represent a historic change in its ownership structure and would open a new stage of global expansion under an Anglo-Saxon management model.

In Italy, the sale of family businesses such as Missoni or Etro, which in 2021 ceded control to the L Catterton fund, reflects a generational changeover in the industry with operations that involve a delicate balance between profitability and legacy, as families are often reluctant to cede control to groups that prioritize financial return over creative continuity. In the case of Missoni, both the founding family and the Fondo Strategico Italiano would be open to selling their entire shareholdings, which would facilitate absolute control to the buyer.

If formalized, the transaction would place Missoni as the most luxury-oriented brand within Authentic’s portfolio, reinforcing the group’s strategy of positioning itself also in the premium segment without renouncing its management model based on diversification and licensing. In the last few weeks, the U.S. holding company has also explored, unsuccessfully for the moment, the purchase of Marc Jacobs from LVMH.