Companies

Fursac Faces Creative Change as Borsarello Exits Amid Smcp Revamp

The designer has revealed his departure from the men’s label after a three-year tenure, following a runway show in Paris scheduled for January 2025. His exit aligns with Smcp’s ongoing sales process, the conglomerate behind both Sandro and Maje.

Fursac Faces Creative Change as Borsarello Exits Amid Smcp Revamp
Fursac Faces Creative Change as Borsarello Exits Amid Smcp Revamp
Gauthier Borsarello was creative director of the men's brand Fursac since 2021.

T.Alonso

Fursac makes a move in its creative studio. Gauthier Borsarello, creative director of the men’s brand since 2021, is leaving the company after three years at the helm. The designer communicated his departure on Friday night through a publication on Instagram, in which he thanked the confidence and creative scope to contribute to the evolution of the brand.

 

In his farewell message, Borsarello credited Fursac’s leap into the designer label’s imaginary with its first appearance on the official Paris Fashion Week calendar, after an initial stint in presentation format. That journey culminated in a runway debut with a show during the capital’s men’s fashion week in January 2025 with its fall-winter 2025 collection.

 

Visibility has not necessarily kept pace with business. Fursac’s sales fell 3% in the third quarter, according to the latest results released by Smcp. Despite gaining exposure in Paris, a showcase that raises the profile, the exercise did not guarantee a commercial boost.

 

Borsarello’s departure coincides with a key moment for the ownership group. Fursac has belonged to Smcp, parent also of accessible premium brands such as Sandro, Maje and Claudie Pierlot, since the group acquired the brand in 2019, two years before bringing the designer on board.

 

 

 

 

Smcp is now heading for a potential sale. At the end of November, the company announced that it had initiated the process following the return of shares linked to a long-running dispute involving former owner Shandong Ruyi and its subsidiary European TopSoho. The move effectively leaves more than half of the group’s capital on the market and opens the door to a new majority.

 

If a buyer exceeds 30% of the capital, it could be forced to launch a takeover bid for the remainder. Smcp, for its part, has been in favor of the process and argues that a new shareholder structure can help reorganize the group as it pursues its long-term strategy.

 

With the operation underway, the company will have to decide on the creative changeover at Fursac and the timing of the appointment, as well as whether to opt for continuity to consolidate the jump to Paris or to take advantage of the change to recalibrate the brand’s positioning at a time when business is not going well.

 

Smcp closed the third quarter with sales of €295 million, up 2.5%, driven by the Americas, which grew 10.5% to 46.7 million, and Emea, which rose 8.3% to 110 million. France, its home market, fell by 0.8% and Asia fell by 10.7% to €40.4 million, due to the adjustment of its network in China. Between January and September, sales reached €896 million, up 2.8%, supported by a full-price strategy and the strength of Sandro and Maje.