1. Do not use Murphy’s Oil Soap. Murphy’s works great on wooden furniture, but don’t make the mistake of using it on your hardwood floors. You won’t notice anything wrong after applying it once, but if used consistently, residue will build up and leave your floor with a dull appearance.

2. Do not use a Wet Swiffer. A Dry Swiffer is great for collecting dust, dirt, and pet hair from your floors, and it is also less abrasive than a vacuum cleaner. However, a Wet Swiffer can cause major long-term damage. The chemicals in the cleaning solution can break down the urethane finish on your floor and leave it dull, faded, and lifeless.

3. Place area rugs anywhere that might collect water. Prime areas are in front of the refrigerator, by the dishwasher, and near any sinks. Make sure that the floor is protected in any spot that is susceptible to minor leaks and water collection. A pool of water is the quickest way to destroy your floor.

4. Use floor mats in spots where people step on the hardwood directly after being outside. In addition to protecting against wet or muddy footprints, floor mats will help collect any sharp or abrasive materials stuck in the treads of shoes. This step will help prevent accidental scraping or scratching.

5. Use felt pads when moving furniture. Or better yet, lift the furniture off the ground instead of sliding it across your hardwood floor. If felt pads must be used, please make sure that they are free of any debris. Even if a tiny little object like a staple is under that pad when heavy furniture is set upon it, your floor could receive some serious gouges.

These steps will help ensure that your home retains its value by protecting your hardwood floors against major damage.

Accidents do happen, however, no matter how careful you are. If your floor becomes damaged, contact the manufacturer or the installer for advice.

You can read more about hardwood flooring at http://www.hardwoodflooringspot.info

At first look, laminate flooring seems to be a natural wood floor but in fact is a layer of paper under a tough protective film that is glued and pressed to a high-density backing board. There are also types of laminate planks that are installed over a moisture barrier which levels any uneven areas of the floor. You don’t need any glue or nails for them because the planks snap together.

Before choosing a laminate flooring material you should think about the type of traffic in your house. One other advantage for laminate flooring is the durability. So this type of floor is one of the best choices for households with heavy foot traffic, kids, or pets. But, best of all, laminates will look like new for years.

Laminates are also highly resistant to stains, fading and moisture and many laminate flooring manufacturers offer warranty protection against them for a long period of time (usually from 10 to 25 years).

If you already have a type of floor this doesn’t represents a problem for you. Laminate flooring can be installed over floors like wood, tile, vinyl or linoleum because most of them are floating which means they do not fasten directly to the subfloor. Also, at this moment, many manufacturers offer snap-together laminate flooring systems.

A typical laminate flooring is and extremely economical solution, if you take in consideration the costs of alternate flooring solutions. Solid hardwood floors will require 4-5 refinishings and carpets and vinyls will need to be replaced at least twice (depending on traffic loads), while laminates don’t require anything.

Laminates come in different styles an types. You can find transition strips, end caps, stair nosings, moldings and baseboards. Almost anything you need you can find at a laminate flooring manufacturer. There are companies that offer floor registers for heating and air vents.

Laminate flooring provides a much cleaner and healthier living environment when compared to other floorings such as carpets, with regular cleaning cycles. It accumulates less dust, pet dander, allergens and it doesn’t hold residual stain contaminants on the surface. Allergic people will often be recommended to remove the carpets from the living space.

In conclusion laminate floors are a very good choice for your home because there are durable, resistant, economical and easy to install.

Laminate flooring enthusiasts unite! Installation, maintenance, selection, e.g., Harmonics, Pergo, Shaw, Mannington - you name it, we are talking about it. Join us at http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

Replacing windows on your property can change the visual appearance of your home considerably. You should choose a style that matches your property and enhances its looks. This is particularly important with Vinyl / PVCu and Aluminium designs when they are fitted to older properties. It’s a good idea to look at properties similar to yours in the area and compare the effect of various replacement window types. It is also a good idea to make sure you have adequate numbers of opening windows. It’s been known for some salespeople to promote designs with very few openings and of a very simple nature. The simpler the design and the fewer the openings ? the "cheaper" the window. Whilst you may end up with a price you like it’s more likely you will regret this option in the end ? especially as badly designed windows can turn out to be a very bad investment and even lower the value of a property. We have known of buyers of properties negotiating a reduced price for a property just because of this. What’s even sadder is that the seller had only "replaced" these windows a few years earlier.

Always ask your supplier how long the delivery will be. It’s also a good idea to have this stipulated on your contract. Additionally ask for an "estimate" of how long the work will take to complete once they are on site.

One major problem with the window, siding and roofing business is that anyone with a pickup truck and a ladder can easily call themselves a contractor. Many do not even bother to get a proper license. (Incidentally a licence can easily be obtained by filling out a simple application form and payment of less than $200.00 per year). These contractors are not required to have an office, they can work out of their basement, back yard or just out of their pickup truck. It’s easy to get into the business and it’s even easier to get out of the business. For this reason in particular we only recommend you deal with established contractors who have a supporting infrastructure.

Ask your contractor / supplier for a written lien waiver. Employees, subcontractors, and suppliers have the right in most jurisdictions to file mechanics liens against your property if the contractor does not pay them. Even though you may have paid your contractor for those materials or work, if he doesn’t meet his financial obligations, the workmen or suppliers can look to you for payment. After you pay the contractor, make sure to get copies of lien waivers to protect yourself from having to pay for the job twice.

Most window replacement projects do not require permits. However, in the instance of enlarging an opening and installing a new header permits are required. Another area to watch is if a bedroom window has a change of style, the building department will require the new style to conform to the egress code. Many contractors will arrange permits at an additional cost - since it consumes more of their time. Some will simply ask you to pay for permits, which they will arrange for on your behalf.

If permits are required for your work then make sure your contractor pulls the required building permits. This way you will know things will be done to “code”. Note: many homeowners’ insurance policies require pulling a permit on any major remodelling to keep your home properly covered. Some contractors prefer not to pull permits because of the time involved and the “hassle” with the inspectors. Some contractors may even ask you to get the permits. This could be a warning sign that they are not able to pull the permits because they are unlicensed, or the work is outside of their license.”

How do you handle job debris? Nothing can be more frustrating than a contractor that has no respect for your property. Make sure that the final price includes removal of all job debris from your property and full clean up. A clean work site is fundamental to a smooth remodelling project. Your contractor should clean up any debris at the end of each day, keep his tools neatly stowed, and neatly stack any excess materials.

Fitting insulated (double-glazed - two panes of glass instead of one) replacement windows will provide some sound insulation. However, if your primary motivation for fitting double-glazing is to reduce sound then secondary glazing where you fit a new single glazed frame in front of the existing (prime) window frame will be better. The greater the “air gap” the better the sound insulation. For an insulated replacement window we suggest you consider windows with a 7/8″ air gap. Beware - there are some windows on the market with air gaps as little as 3/8″.

Some industry professionals offer a guarantee of fuel savings on certain windows with added benefits. These cost a little more but offer a good long-term return on the additional investment.

If you chose Vinyl for your replacement windows make sure to use 100% virgin vinyl, as opposed to reprocessed or recycled vinyl (regrind) extruded from a variety of used vinyl products. Regrind will be cheaper but will not have the same colour fast guarantees etc.

Don’t accept the first price you are quoted. Get at least two ? three estimates if you have the time. Research all of the alternatives in terms of product and style.

Where practical try to visit a showroom or view other work carried out by the contractor. Alternatively ask to speak to other customers on the telephone. Do bear in mind however that the company is going to give a reference that will be complimentary. Try and ask specific questions such as ? Did they turn up on time? Was any thing missing and how quickly was this rectified? Did they leave the site clean and tidy? Don’t always expect "perfect answers" ? in fact be suspicious if they are. Any type of building work or remodelling can have its problems or unforeseen challenges. The point is "how quickly was it sorted and was it to your satisfaction". It’s often been said that the true test of a company is when there are problems ? not when everything goes perfectly.

Most companies will require a deposit with order. Try and make the deposit as low a percentage as possible ? generally speaking 10% is normal. Avoid paying larger deposits than this unless your work is particularly "unique" / "bespoke" ? such as "one off" timber window designs. It’s likely in these circumstances that suppliers will require higher holding deposits. You should also make sure that a "fair percentage" is withheld until such times as the work is completed to your entire satisfaction.

Check out the Guarantee and what it covers. It’s always best to ask a potential supplier to be specific (in writing) about these issues.

Always enquire about the type of locks and security features being fitted. Most modern insulated replacement windows feature security locks and often for a little extra you can have even better security.

With PVCU (Vinyl) windows in particular you will often hear a lot of "arguments" in favour of using an internally beaded window ? instead of an externally beaded window. Clearly if the beads holding in the glass are on the inside of the window it will be more difficult for a burglar to remove the glass and enter your home. Do note however that some suppliers of externally beaded windows will fit special glazing gaskets and double-sided tape to the frame and sealed unit in order to improve on the security and some even claim security "as good as" internal beading.

Rarely will the "cheapest" price be the best for you in the long run. When comparing "like with like" please also take into comparison how long the company has been established and the "quality" of their guarantees.

Ask your supplier if you will be responsible for "making good" around the new frames when they are fitted. Most suppliers will include this as part of their work ? but you should check.

Whilst PVCu/Vinyl and Aluminium frames are virtually maintenance free please note that the hinges and mechanical parts such as locks will need regular lubrication etc. The frames will also benefit from an occasional "wipe down". Special Vinyl frame cleaners are available.

For timber frames you will need to paint every 3-5 years or, if you are using hardwood, oil or varnish as appropriate. I recommend an annual "spring clean" for all windows and doors no matter whether they are PVCU/Vinyl, Aluminium or Hardwood.

My final tip in this section and perhaps one of the most important. Do not be the Customer from Hell. To get the best out of any Replacement Window Supplier or Contractor maintain a friendly but professional rapport. Do not assume that they will always be trying to get “one over” on you. Their advice may be in your best interests. If you appear defensive and untrusting - always assuming the worst of your supplier - the whole experience will be unpleasant for both you and the supplier. Be vigilant - but always prepared to listen to their advice - especially if problems occur.

Whilst most trades will come prepared with their own food and drinks - do take the time to offer them hospitality. A cold drink on a warm summer day or hot soup in the winter will build on your relationship - resulting in a better job for you.

Barry Dunlop is the Founder of WindowsToday.co.uk - a top online resource for buyers of replacement windows, double glazing, doors, porches, conservatories and secondary glazing. Find out more at http://www.windowstoday.co.uk

Most pool heating systems include a:

Solar collector: The device through which pool water is circulated to be heated by the sun

Filter: Removes debris before water is pumped through the collector

Pump: Circulates water through the filter and collector and back to the pool

Flow control valve: Automatic or manual device that diverts pool water through the solar collector.

How pool heating systems work.

Pool water is pumped through the filter and then through the solar collector(s), where it is heated before it is returned to the pool. In hot climates, the collector can also be used to cool the pool during peak summer months by circulating the water through the collector at night.

Some systems include sensors and an automatic or manual valve to divert water through the collector when the collector temperature is sufficiently greater than the pool temperature. When the collector temperature is similar to the pool temperature, filtered water simply bypasses the collectors and is returned to the pool.

Solar pool collectors

Solar pool collectors are made out of different materials; the type that you buy depends on your climate and how you intend to use the collector. Collectors designed to operate only when temperatures are above freezing are inexpensive, made from specially formulated plastic materials, and generally do not include glazing (a glass covering). Collectors appropriate for colder climates, or that are designed to operate year-round, generally have metal components and a low iron-tempered glass glazing (glazing greatly increases the cost of the collector).

Solar Pool Covers

The largest heat loss from a swimming pool is from evaporation, by adding a simple barrier such as a pool cover can cut almost all of these losses. Covering the pool with a pool cover when it is not in use is the single most effective means of reducing pool heating costs. Savings of 50-70% are possible. It is also worthwhile investing in a pool cover reel, to make covering the pool easier.

Gavin Dye is Author and Webmaster at http://www.solar-power-4u.com where you can learn how to save money using solar power and wind power.

If your hardwood floors are in dire need of refinishing, get a few estimates from professionals. You may be surprised at the figures. You’ll want to sit down when they tell you it will cost you $1200 to have your living room redone. You could carpet over it for less, but doesn’t carpeting over beautiful hardwood floors seem, well, wrong?

Contrary to what you may have heard, the finish doesn’t take days and days to dry. It’s quite simple actually. Go to your favorite local home improvement store, Lowe’s, Menard’s, Home Depot or other. Rent a sander. You’ll need a drum sander, a belt sander or both. They will explain to you how to use the machine and tell you what kind of sand paper to purchase. They will also tell you what kind of stain and finish to get. Make sure you also pick up some dust masks because you will have saw dust everywhere.

The sanders are very easy to use. They’re a bit on the loud side. The key is to keep it moving at all times. Do not stop or you will get a divot in your wood. Think of it like a clothes iron. You need to keep it moving or you will burn your clothes. Same deal with the sander. It creates a lot of heat and you will burn or dent your floors if you hesitate in one place too long.

You will feel like a Zamboni driver smoothing out your surface. Word of caution, you do need to maintain control of the machine at all times. It is self propelled, like a lawn mower or a basset hound on a leash. When you power it up, hold on to the machine tightly. Don’t be afraid of it and after a few passes, you’ll start to even have fun.

First you need to remove the old finish, basecoat, color, and top coat. You may opt to forgo the color (stain) and just use the nature color of the wood. You will still need to apply a finish to it.

There are basically two types of floor finishes: one is oil-based and the other is water-based polyurethane. Oil-based is available in a satin, semi-gloss or gloss finish. Satin works well on floors because it hides small flaws and lets the natural beauty of the wood show without a bright shine. Oil-based also produces a warm amber look that gives you the traditional glow of wood floors. Water-based polyurethane dries clear and resists yellowing. Water-based also dries quicker.

Make sure you let each coat thoroughly dry before applying the next; same as you would nail polish. Give your floor at least 24-36 hours before moving furniture back on it. It will continue to harden in the first couple of weeks.

Don’t be overwhelmed. Instead of looking at refinishing your hardwood floors as a humungous job, look at it as giving your room a manicure, one step at a time. You’ll also save yourself as much as $1,000 by doing it yourself.

Luz Madera loves to work with wood. She is the webmaster of http://www.funwoodworks.com which is the premier woodwork and woodworking site on the internet. Please visit http://www.funwoodworks.com for some excellent woodworking resources.